fence tips and tricks

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True Grit Farms
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby True Grit Farms » Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:24 pm

Is there a mill line on that pipe? It's easy to to get plum if there is one. That young man can lay out good, no 1/2" gaps to fill there. Why do you run the weld up hill? I know it's not for the strength, and I'm sure you have a good reason.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby ddd75 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:55 pm

getting that shaver broken in good.. :D
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby callmefence » Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:15 pm

True Grit Farms wrote:Is there a mill line on that pipe? It's easy to to get plum if there is one. That young man can lay out good, no 1/2" gaps to fill there. Why do you run the weld up hill? I know it's not for the strength, and I'm sure you have a good reason.


I run the weld both ways because I'm filling a gap. Using pipe a size smaller than the post you can make a straight cut instead of a saddle. No sir it's not structural strong. But it's plenty strong.
And braces don't pay structural strong.
Plus I can have unskilled labor do it.
Young man is very skilled. Skilled enough to not be throwing away his pocket. We will be building some pipe fence next week saddled and all." Although there is already a video back in this thread" With experience you learn when to put a hook in your good baits.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby True Grit Farms » Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:54 pm

callmefence wrote:
True Grit Farms wrote:Is there a mill line on that pipe? It's easy to to get plum if there is one. That young man can lay out good, no 1/2" gaps to fill there. Why do you run the weld up hill? I know it's not for the strength, and I'm sure you have a good reason.


I run the weld both ways because I'm filling a gap. Using pipe a size smaller than the post you can make a straight cut instead of a saddle. No sir it's not structural strong. But it's plenty strong.
And braces don't pay structural strong.
Plus I can have unskilled labor do it.
Young man is very skilled. Skilled enough to not be throwing away his pocket. We will be building some pipe fence next week saddled and all." Although there is already a video back in this thread" With experience you learn when to put a hook in your good baits.


You have me confused, which isn't hard.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby callmefence » Tue Feb 27, 2018 1:18 pm

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=100515&p=1290571&hilit=Saddling+pipe#p1290571

I just bumped the old video up on how we saddle pipe. We do use a torch some, but mostly the portable bandsaw. I started this little job (277 ' of three rail and a gate repair)8:00 on Monday. That means loading the tractor, cutting the post before driving 25 to the job site.
Noon Tuesday we're cleaning up. Been in the rain a good bit and had to stop this morning run into town and buy a new welder. :bang:





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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby callmefence » Sun Mar 04, 2018 7:14 am

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby pricefarm » Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:53 am

callmefence wrote:https://youtu.be/YzreVBv3ees


That's how I do it if the ground is soft enough and I don't hit a rock.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby greybeard » Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:48 am

pricefarm wrote:
callmefence wrote:https://youtu.be/YzreVBv3ees


That's how I do it if the ground is soft enough and I don't hit a rock.

Me too with my backoe/loader. When the ground is hard as a hooker's heart tho, I have to drive them by bouncing the bucket up/down. The first time I did it, after about 70 of them, the fan started hitting the radiator shroud. I had beat the front rubber motor mount out of the ancient 1970s something 480CK Case.
I have, pushed/driven some 6"x2" channel iron posts to refusal on a road's retaining wall, but had to fill the bucket with dirt to do it.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby callmefence » Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:53 am

When the grounds hard you can cut you a piece of 2" pipe to grade and slide it over the post to help with bending.
Of course really hard ground are rock its not gonna work at all.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby slick4591 » Sun Mar 04, 2018 12:42 pm

Guess I'm lucky that I don't have the rocks. Roots are my biggest problem when pushing t-posts.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bigfoot » Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:01 pm

Winter months, if I sharpen one end, I can drive a pretty good size wood post with a FEL full of dirt or rock
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby greybeard » Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:14 pm

slick4591 wrote:Guess I'm lucky that I don't have the rocks. Roots are my biggest problem when pushing t-posts.

I can usually get 'em in past/thru roots but they are a bear to get back out...usually come out missing the spade.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby fence_it » Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:20 pm

We pound ours with the shaver. Feather tap them a couple times and they go right in. That way the guy on the ground can level them and get the height exact. Summer time when the ground is hard we slide a pipe over them to keep them from bending.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bigfoot » Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:38 pm

They make a little sleeve, that slips over a hot wire on a terminal post. It has a piece of soft flat metal in it. I stripped the barbs off of some barbed wire, and slid it through that sleeve. Made it hot yesterday, and this afternoon, 2 of them had burned through. Got to be operator error, but I only see one way the stupid thing should go together. Now I guess ill have to replace about 20 of the things. I turned the flat metal piece, towards the post, made the connection with a ferrule, and tensioned it with a gripple from the middle of the wire. I've got a 6 penny nail, driven above and below it to keep it from moving up or down. The nails make no contact with the insulator.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Farm Fence Solutions » Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:58 pm

Bigfoot wrote:They make a little sleeve, that slips over a hot wire on a terminal post. It has a piece of soft flat metal in it. I stripped the barbs off of some barbed wire, and slid it through that sleeve. Made it hot yesterday, and this afternoon, 2 of them had burned through. Got to be operator error, but I only see one way the stupid thing should go together. Now I guess ill have to replace about 20 of the things. I turned the flat metal piece, towards the post, made the connection with a ferrule, and tensioned it with a gripple from the middle of the wire. I've got a 6 penny nail, driven above and below it to keep it from moving up or down. The nails make no contact with the insulator.


Where did you get them? The DARE brand in the red box at the farm stores are junk. We stock some good ones, and so does Kencove.
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