Page 1 of 2

End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 10:53 pm
by skyhightree1
The fix for that issue will take about 24 hrs for the yellowing to go away end rot treatment not sure but this helps
5 Gallon bucket
50 lbs of pulverized limestone
put about 3lbs of crushed limestone in the bucket fill with water and stir it good and either use the 5 gallon bucket to pour on your plants or put in something you can use to water the garden. GIve it a good dose on it and around the base of the plant. I put it on my yellowing squash pumpkins and cantalopes and watermelon plants peppers as well. I will probably just put the powder in the rows in upcoming gardens and may still apply the powder around the plants when it will rain for sure.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 11:46 pm
by greybeard
skyhightree1 wrote:The fix for that issue will take about 24 hrs for the yellowing to go away end rot treatment not sure but this helps
5 Gallon bucket
50 lbs of pulverized limestone
put about 3lbs of crushed limestone in the bucket fill with water and stir it good and either use the 5 gallon bucket to pour on your plants or put in something you can use to water the garden. GIve it a good dose on it and around the base of the plant. I put it on my yellowing squash pumpkins and cantalopes and watermelon plants peppers as well. I will probably just put the powder in the rows in upcoming gardens and may still apply the powder around the plants when it will rain for sure.

Let me see I understand this. My alleged garden is a sea of mud and every step I take, means the ankle deep footprint fills with water before i can even set my foot back down in a new spot even deeper in mud, and you say the fix for my yellowing plants is to add even more water to the garden.
I'm missing something here...

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 12:48 am
by Nesikep
I need the opposite.. we've got tons of calcium around here.. we're only about 30 miles from a limestone quarry, and can see a limestone face on the mountain across the river.. Phosphorus on the other hand is in very short supply here

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:16 pm
by skyhightree1
greybeard wrote:
skyhightree1 wrote:The fix for that issue will take about 24 hrs for the yellowing to go away end rot treatment not sure but this helps
5 Gallon bucket
50 lbs of pulverized limestone
put about 3lbs of crushed limestone in the bucket fill with water and stir it good and either use the 5 gallon bucket to pour on your plants or put in something you can use to water the garden. GIve it a good dose on it and around the base of the plant. I put it on my yellowing squash pumpkins and cantalopes and watermelon plants peppers as well. I will probably just put the powder in the rows in upcoming gardens and may still apply the powder around the plants when it will rain for sure.

Let me see I understand this. My alleged garden is a sea of mud and every step I take, means the ankle deep footprint fills with water before i can even set my foot back down in a new spot even deeper in mud, and you say the fix for my yellowing plants is to add even more water to the garden.
I'm missing something here...


I forgot to add the GB clause .. This will not work for your situation :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: I would pay to have some of your moisture

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:17 pm
by skyhightree1
Nesikep wrote:I need the opposite.. we've got tons of calcium around here.. we're only about 30 miles from a limestone quarry, and can see a limestone face on the mountain across the river.. Phosphorus on the other hand is in very short supply here


I bet you can get lime for dirt cheap there.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 5:39 pm
by Jogeephus
skyhightree1 wrote: I will probably just put the powder in the rows in upcoming gardens and may still apply the powder around the plants when it will rain for sure.


Do you not keep your garden limed per a soil test already?

I'm seeing a train wreck with this recommendation.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 9:39 pm
by skyhightree1
not yearly .. every few years .it helped my stuff greatly

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 10:37 pm
by 3waycross
Nesikep wrote:I need the opposite.. we've got tons of calcium around here.. we're only about 30 miles from a limestone quarry, and can see a limestone face on the mountain across the river.. Phosphorus on the other hand is in very short supply here



We have plenty of lime too, but lack magnesium. I have to pour Epsom Salts on my tomatoes every year, peppers too

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 9:49 am
by Jogeephus
skyhightree1 wrote:not yearly .. every few years .it helped my stuff greatly


Again, I ask, have you pulled a soil test and seen what your pH is in your garden? The yellowing of your plants has little to do with blossom end rot.

The yellowing is a sign of a nutrient deficiency which usually from to low a pH or to high of a pH. Sounds like yours is too low. The problem I see with your suggestion is that too much lime could also cause the same yellowing if someone has their pH at the correct level.

You need to pull a soil test to see what's going on. You need get your pH to 6.5 - 6.8. If you get it there then the soil nutrients are freely available to the plant. If you get it there and you are still having problems with blossom end rot then its due to a calcium deficiency and less likely a magnesium deficiency since the lime should have a minimal of 1:2 ratio of magnesium to calcium. Adding extra magnesium like 3-Way suggested is not going to hurt you and is a good insurance policy but adding more lime can really screw your garden up.

Lime is calcium carbonate and it will break down with water and change your pH so it is not the proper source of calcium to suit your needs so doing as you suggest on a properly limed garden could cause some major problems. What you need is calcium sulfate, aka land plaster or gypsum - NOT LIME. This will add the needed calcium to your soil and will not alter your pH and it will give you the needed sulfate which plants need to grow as well.

I would agree with your tip IF you said add gypsum to the bucket but I disagree with using lime. You can screw up a garden fast doing that. Extra calcium in the soil is not going to hurt a thing. In fact, having plenty of calcium in your soil is good. Splitting hairs a bit but if you are trying to push your weaning weights on your cattle the application of gypsum (calcium) will aid this because bone growth is dependent on the calcium. Extra calcium will aid the wet cows and will supplement the calves and their bone growth. I'm splitting hairs here but its just common sense when you understand the system and how it works. What doesn't make sense is the government's war on coal. We are now having to add sulfur to our fertilizer mixes because the lack of sulfur in the atmosphere. We used to get it for free but now we have to buy it and ironically, much of the land plaster we buy today is derived from the lime which is used in the scrubbers of the coal fuel power plants. They grind limestone and mix with water and spray this to capture the sulfur the plants otherwise would use. The resulting product is calcium sulfate - which we purchase. I suspect once the gov't shuts down these coal plants we will have to go back to mining gypsum and the cost will skyrocket and not to mention the environmental costs of more strip mines. Just something to think about along with what damage are we doing to other plants that don't enjoy the luxury of our husbandry and don't get their sulfur needs subsidized.

Sorry, didn't mean to write a book but maybe this helps someone grow tomatoes.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 9:55 am
by skyhightree1
Makes sense.. No need for apologies for the book that's what this board is here for. I am going to pull a soil sample this fall.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:56 am
by CottageFarm
Ditto what Jo said, and as an expansion on what 3way said (Just to confuse the issue further..... :D )

Magnesium deficiency can also inhibit uptake of calcium, even when there is sufficient available calcium.
In turn, soil temperature and moisture saturation can inhibit magnesium uptake, even though those levels are sufficient. As an example, a cold wet spring can cause blossom end rot on early fruit even in otherwise perfect nutrient conditions, most especially in heavier soils.

Conversely, dry conditions and inconsistent watering can produce leaf yellowing and blossom end rot regardless of available nutrients. Tomatoes can be especially susceptible to these conditions. Some varieties are more prone than others.
So, unfortunately, its not always as simple as just amending soil with one nutrient.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:22 am
by 3waycross
skyhightree1 wrote:Makes sense.. No need for apologies for the book that's what this board is here for. I am going to pull a soil sample this fall.


You cant test your PH with a $10 test kit I am pretty sure

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 12:28 pm
by Jogeephus
Thanks, and good point Cottagefarm, I forgot to mention that.

Here, the best method to insure against water stress is to use a drip irrigation on the tomatoes and this will keep the available moisture pretty constant and prevent our droughty spikes. Of course if its raining every day you are just screwed.

Growing tomatoes in my area is tough. Not only do we have a host of diseases but its just a delicate plant in our extreme weather conditions. The things I've found that work is keeping the garden soil at the proper pH, having plenty of calcium in the soil, adding a tablespoon of epsom salt to each plant at planting, and if I see the leaves beginning to curl a little - which can be a sign of calcium deficiency - applying a foliar treatment of Folical or calcium nitrate to the plants and using drip irrigation. This works pretty good and leaves me to only have to worry about all the other pests and diseases they like tomatoes.

When all these obstacles are overcome I can grow me some maters but unfortunately there is no magic bullet and sometimes like Cottagefarm mentions, its just out of your hands.

Re: End Rot/yellowing plants = calcium issue

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 12:44 pm
by skyhightree1
3waycross wrote:
skyhightree1 wrote:Makes sense.. No need for apologies for the book that's what this board is here for. I am going to pull a soil sample this fall.


You cant test your PH with a $10 test kit I am pretty sure


:oops: I have some of those tests. Thanks for reminding.

End Rot/yellowing plants calcium issue

Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:59 am
by delmetxhg
You are correct that blossom end rot can affect squash and cucumbers as well as tomatoes. Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium uptake in these plants which is exacerbated by dry soil conditions. Mulching with pine mulch helps retain moisture and also helps maintain a more even level of soil moisture. If you notice blossom end rot, spray with Bonide Rot-Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot according to the label directions. This can also be sprayed on cucumbers, squash, melons, and peppers.