Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

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david1852
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Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by david1852 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:44 am

I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks



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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by callmefence » Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:12 am

david1852 wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:44 am
I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks
I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol
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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by callmefence » Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:15 am

callmefence wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:12 am
david1852 wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:44 am
I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks
I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol
After reading your post again it sounds like you just need to get better post.
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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by david1852 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:01 pm

callmefence wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:15 am
callmefence wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:12 am
david1852 wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:44 am
I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks
I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol
After reading your post again it sounds like you just need to get better post.

Thanks for the reply
That is my thought exactly. There are a lot of cattle farmers in my part of N.C. and in nearby S.C. but it seems like there is nobody that sells a quality post that is straight.

I've looked at the posts from 3 different Southern States co-op stores, Tractor Supplies, Home Depot and Lowe's. Looks like they all source all their posts from the same place and all look the same.

No one uses metal pipe around here so there's none available. All fences are all wooden posts or a combination of wooden posts and T-posts.

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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by Kingfisher » Mon Mar 23, 2020 4:00 pm

Look at Kencove fencing. They sell and explain the difference in good post and amateur post.
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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by jltrent » Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:57 pm

Image

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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by david1852 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:09 pm

jltrent wrote:
Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:57 pm
Image

Looks like my setup.

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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by Brute 23 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 12:43 am

Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?
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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by bball » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:18 am

Brute 23 wrote:
Tue Mar 24, 2020 12:43 am
Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?
Never had the joy of using a Danuser hammer, but when we drove them with a maul in upstate NY, we cut a point on them with a chainsaw. Made all the difference in that rock laden clay.
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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by david1852 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:02 am

Brute 23 wrote:
Tue Mar 24, 2020 12:43 am
Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?
The Danuser rep I talked with said that flat bottom posts will drive in straighter.

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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by SmokinM » Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:33 am

I am here with you I bought one about 3 weeks ago. I have only played with it a little but I am running it on a skid steer. I would imagine it is much easier than on a tractor. Driving wood posts really straight is always a challenge especially where we have a lot of small rock in the ground. I wish I had done the added weight and think I may have to add it sooner than later.

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Re: Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

Post by david1852 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:57 pm

I drove in about a dozen more posts today. Things seemed to go a little better but getting those warped posts to drive in straight is still a challenge. Having a helper on the ground today helped too.

My Hammer is supposed to have the weight kit but I haven't pulled the weight out to verify. I've driven both 8" and 6" and both seem to go in at about the same speed. I'm putting them down to 42". The first 24" goes in pretty fast with the last 18" taking a little more time. Right now the ground is pretty soft so it'll be interesting to see how it works in July or August.

One thing that I'm really impressed with is how solid the posts are in the ground. They don't move.

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