fence tips and tricks

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libertygarden
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby libertygarden » Sun May 20, 2018 6:09 pm

I guess my point is that an N brace is in line just like an H brace. That's why asked how it obstructs. I see your point if you put one into the pasture.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bright Raven » Sun May 20, 2018 6:12 pm

libertygarden wrote:I guess my point is that an N brace is in line just like an H brace. That's why asked how it obstructs. I see your point if you put one into the pasture.


I am sorry. I misunderstood you. I thought you were talking about a brace like FFS pictured above. You mean an in-line diagonal brace. I still prefer the H Brace design.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Farm Fence Solutions » Sun May 20, 2018 6:15 pm

Inline braces work fine, they just cost twice as much.
Any utility contractor supply outfit will have long handled double shovels. Just putting Long handles on normal diggers won’t do the trick, unless the top of your hole is 3’ wide.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby greybeard » Sun May 20, 2018 8:42 pm

libertygarden wrote:One more thing, does anyone know where to buy long handles (5-6') for post hole diggers. I've seen guys in Brazil using these post hole diggers with very long handles. Makes it easier to go 4' down, instead pounding while kneeling down. I was going to screw PVC pipe as an extension, but if I can get get longer handles it would be better.

Thx.

I just gave away a set not long ago, but they were very old and they worked kinda strange. The handles would fully scissor accross/past each other. Overall height was over 8' long, closer to 9'. You can run across them every once in awhile at flea markets...they are linemen's diggers, that they used to plant utility poles with back before there was an auger on just about every bucket truck the electric companies had.


They do have some modern hand posthole diggers that will dig a 4' deep hole without the top of the hole being widened very much at all. I have some of those too. They take some getting used to.....They are double jointed. The double pivot point means you push the handles together to close the clamshell instead of spreading the handles to grab the dirt.
I actually found mine at Tractor Supply..all steel, rugged, but pretty heavy.


https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/pos ... ole-digger

They look somewhat like this, tho this one isn't really a double jointed digger:
Image

the actual thing:
Image

I hate the following website and most of what it represents, but it does explain the double pivot phd.
https://www.motherearthnews.com/homeste ... az83mjzraw
Last edited by greybeard on Mon May 21, 2018 4:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby libertygarden » Sun May 20, 2018 11:01 pm

Thanks for everyone's input. I've got about 1.5 miles of perimeter fence to do. I've done lots of mistakes that have resulted in extra work, but I'm getting there. This is a picture of a small stretch of fence by the creek that needs to be replaced or fixed. The t-posts are good and the wire so-so in many parts, but the corner braces are all rotted.

The mosquitos and ticks are big and hungry in this area.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby ddd75 » Mon May 21, 2018 5:50 am

if you have 1.5 miles to go.. I'd either hire the posts pounded... or rent a post pounder.

i surely wouldn't dig it all by hand. I've already dug a few miles of fence by hand and its just a big waste of time and energy. If you give me the month or so of work that you'd have building that fence I'll come build it for you. :)
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bright Raven » Mon May 21, 2018 5:57 am

ddd75 wrote:if you have 1.5 miles to go.. I'd either hire the posts pounded... or rent a post pounder.

i surely wouldn't dig it all by hand. I've already dug a few miles of fence by hand and its just a big waste of time and energy. If you give me the month or so of work that you'd have building that fence I'll come build it for you. :)


I agree. That much fence - better get a post driver.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Farm Fence Solutions » Mon May 21, 2018 6:25 am

Or you could use pipe and drive them by hand, or with a gas powered driver. Bolt on hardware makes it easy for those who don't weld. I'd rather drive one by hand than dig a hole.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bright Raven » Mon May 21, 2018 6:30 am

Farm Fence Solutions wrote:Or you could use pipe and drive them by hand, or with a gas powered driver. Bolt on hardware makes it easy for those who don't weld. I'd rather drive one by hand than dig a hole.


Luke. Do they make a hand driver for pipe - something along the lines of a T-post driver? Or do you mean using a sledge?
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Farm Fence Solutions » Mon May 21, 2018 6:36 am

Bright Raven wrote:
Farm Fence Solutions wrote:Or you could use pipe and drive them by hand, or with a gas powered driver. Bolt on hardware makes it easy for those who don't weld. I'd rather drive one by hand than dig a hole.


Luke. Do they make a hand driver for pipe - something along the lines of a T-post driver? Or do you mean using a sledge?


Most make their own, but yes, just a T post driver on roids.


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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby libertygarden » Mon May 21, 2018 7:06 am

I'm in black prairie land, 100% clay soil, so pounding T posts is not the problem. Six to eight wacks and the post is in 18". My problem, aside from inexperience and working alone, is digging 4' corner posts. Two sides of the property are straight, but the third side -- the property being shaped like a triangle-- runs along side a creek about 750 yards. I'm planning on renting a bobcat with an auger and dig all holes at once. The soil is too wet on some of the low areas to operate a bobcat, but it should dry by mid June. Most of the work so far has been clearing the fence line of hackberry, juniper, elm, and bodark.

Tamping clay soil is a problem all on its own.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bright Raven » Mon May 21, 2018 7:10 am

libertygarden wrote:I'm in black prairie land, 100% clay soil, so pounding T posts is not the problem. Six to eight wacks and the post is in 18". My problem, aside from inexperience and working alone, is digging 4' corner posts. Two sides of the property are straight, but the third side -- the property being shaped like a triangle-- runs along side a creek about 750 yards. I'm planning on renting a bobcat with an auger and dig all holes at once. The soil is too wet on some of the low areas to operate a bobcat, but it should dry by mid June. Most of the work so far has been clearing the fence line of hackberry, juniper, elm, and bodark.

Tamping clay soil is a problem all on its own.


Let me save you a lot of trouble and disappointment. DON'T TRY TO FOLLOW A MEANDERING CREEK. I did and it don't work. Give up some fenced pasture and move away from the creek and fence on as much of a straight line as you can!!!@
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby callmefence » Mon May 21, 2018 7:17 am

libertygarden wrote:I'm in black prairie land, 100% clay soil, so pounding T posts is not the problem. Six to eight wacks and the post is in 18". My problem, aside from inexperience and working alone, is digging 4' corner posts. Two sides of the property are straight, but the third side -- the property being shaped like a triangle-- runs along side a creek about 750 yards. I'm planning on renting a bobcat with an auger and dig all holes at once. The soil is too wet on some of the low areas to operate a bobcat, but it should dry by mid June. Most of the work so far has been clearing the fence line of hackberry, juniper, elm, and bodark.

Tamping clay soil is a problem all on its own.


If you're in the BLACKLAND prairie you want to beat 4 ' and you need to drive them. Trust me I know. A good fence builder can probably drive them and provide them cheaper than you can buy the pipe.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Farm Fence Solutions » Mon May 21, 2018 7:45 am

Yep. If it's gonna be tight, I'd want some post in the ground. We use 10' in "good" ground. In muck, sometimes weld another 10' on the first one.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Postby Bright Raven » Mon May 21, 2018 7:59 am

You fence guys like tight fences. But consider, you are shoveling shyt into the tide. There is a Law of Thermodynamics that states - all matter seeks its lowest energy level. That means:

1. Wire fatigues.
2. Braces eventually surrender.
3. Materials decay as they revert to their natural state.

You are only delaying the inevitable. But Bless your hearts. You give it your best effort and we love you for it. Lol

Reference:
The principle of minimum energy is essentially a restatement of the second law of thermodynamics. It states that for a closed system, with constant external parameters and entropy, the internal energy will decrease and approach a minimum value at equilibrium. External parameters generally means the volume, but may include other parameters which are specified externally, such as a constant magnetic field.
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