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Baler Knot
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<blockquote data-quote="Pnw Farmer" data-source="post: 1755460" data-attributes="member: 42548"><p>Thanks for all the replies so far, I thought about the chamber pressure as well but the bales aren't coming out as bricks. Twine springs some, 44-46" average length and around the 70# mark. Much looser and it'll be like walking on sand trying to stack them. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I can't attest to saying this machine is supposed to run sisal only since I don't have a manual yet, the twine I'm running is poly and it had a couple near empty bales of poly in it when I got it so I can only assume it's good to run poly or sisal. The first bales had a dew and they are heavy, no change though from those to after I let it completely dry out and 15# less/bale as far as breakage goes. I actually quit running because my first bales were running 18-35% moisture from the dew, gave it a few hours and they dropped down around 14-16%.</p><p></p><p>The knives are fixed position, no adjustment available. It's set the same as the left side which is working like a top. I put as close to a razor's edge on the knife as well with no change. Ran it through some twine and it cut completely in less than half the blade length.</p><p></p><p>I wasn't slug feeding, the windrows were pretty even so I don't think I can blame it on windrow consistency. Every thing on the right side is just more worn than the left, needle has a groove, older style frame, less paint showing on the twine discs, little more play in the gears, it just hasn't been touched yet. </p><p></p><p>Couple old boys told me beardless just bales harder and that I'm "gettin' my lessons as a rookie". Ornery ol' codgers. Haha. I'm not new to baling, just been out of the game for 15 years or so and back then it was a wire tie, Wisconsin driven JD 224 wire so I'm working with a completely different animal and back then I was just a driver who called dad on anything major instead of working on things like this one. </p><p></p><p>Thanks again everyone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pnw Farmer, post: 1755460, member: 42548"] Thanks for all the replies so far, I thought about the chamber pressure as well but the bales aren't coming out as bricks. Twine springs some, 44-46" average length and around the 70# mark. Much looser and it'll be like walking on sand trying to stack them. I can't attest to saying this machine is supposed to run sisal only since I don't have a manual yet, the twine I'm running is poly and it had a couple near empty bales of poly in it when I got it so I can only assume it's good to run poly or sisal. The first bales had a dew and they are heavy, no change though from those to after I let it completely dry out and 15# less/bale as far as breakage goes. I actually quit running because my first bales were running 18-35% moisture from the dew, gave it a few hours and they dropped down around 14-16%. The knives are fixed position, no adjustment available. It's set the same as the left side which is working like a top. I put as close to a razor's edge on the knife as well with no change. Ran it through some twine and it cut completely in less than half the blade length. I wasn't slug feeding, the windrows were pretty even so I don't think I can blame it on windrow consistency. Every thing on the right side is just more worn than the left, needle has a groove, older style frame, less paint showing on the twine discs, little more play in the gears, it just hasn't been touched yet. Couple old boys told me beardless just bales harder and that I'm "gettin' my lessons as a rookie". Ornery ol' codgers. Haha. I'm not new to baling, just been out of the game for 15 years or so and back then it was a wire tie, Wisconsin driven JD 224 wire so I'm working with a completely different animal and back then I was just a driver who called dad on anything major instead of working on things like this one. Thanks again everyone. [/QUOTE]
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