Best Cattle Crosses For Unassisted Calving

Help Support CattleToday:

Appreciate your updates as a lot of folks ask questions and go away.

Glad you are staying in the black, I hear so many folk talking about losing money farming but they are also spending big money on equipment.

Have written my tractor equipment off, but only need a good squeeze chute at this point and to maintain fences.

Also, not sorry I decided to go for year-round grazing with low inputs. Definitely easier on the pocketbook.

And not tempted to buy expensive cattle right now. At most I will buy a few more Corrientes:), but not even planning on that at this point.

I think, at least from my current experience up to this point, the best way to make money in cattle might just be to do as little as possible and let nature do the work.
 
my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now, I feel like my cattle's exposure to worms is not enough to warrant it.

I'd have to agree that with cows having to cover so much ground to find forage that they are unlikely to acquire a worm load easily... but that assumes they aren't already full of worms. With sparce grass I'd definitely worm anything newly acquired before release.
 
I'm not against deworming, but as my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now, I feel like my cattle's exposure to worms is not enough to warrant it.

I think a big test on this one will be to see what my calves' weaning weights are. Of the three I kept, one on going to auction in July. I'll be happy to post its weight, age, and price from the sale.

None of my adult cattle fell through BCS of 4.75 during the bad drought, so I didn't worry about it. They are all pushing 5 to 6.75 BCS now, even with calves on them, so not planning on deworming them any time soon.

I think the main thing that worries me about deworming is that it kills the soil life I spent 5 years trying to build up. I'm convinced maintaining a low stocking rate and destocking early in a drought is the way to go, along with avoiding pesticides when possible. We've already got over 365 days of forage for the cattle grown and that is with take half/leave half thinking. Don't want to poison myself out of a sweet spot.

But if a cow falls out of condition, I'll definitely consider worming.

Does anyone know of a dewormer that doesn't kill other bugs in the soil?
Cydectin
 
I'd have to agree that with cows having to cover so much ground to find forage that they are unlikely to acquire a worm load easily... but that assumes they aren't already full of worms. With sparce grass I'd definitely worm anything newly acquired before release.
Grass not sparse, for sure. Grazed this field all winter. This is yesterday. Was going to rest it for the rest of the spring and into summer but the 8" rain washed out 100 feet of fence along the southwest side of my place, so had to lock them back up in the northeast side. But I think we have recovered from the drought.

Never seen my cows looking this good by May 7th, so not worried about worms. And my calves look like they'll be pushing 550 to 600 lbs by July, so I think they're good. But I'll check out Cydectin.
 

Attachments

  • a87fcdb8-a432-4467-8065-974ba7d78ebb.jpeg
    a87fcdb8-a432-4467-8065-974ba7d78ebb.jpeg
    337.7 KB · Views: 11
  • e063275a-dd1f-4cd5-bf12-1fe539dd86cb.jpeg
    e063275a-dd1f-4cd5-bf12-1fe539dd86cb.jpeg
    582.7 KB · Views: 11
Grass not sparse, for sure. Grazed this field all winter. This is yesterday. Was going to rest it for the rest of the spring and into summer but the 8" rain washed out 100 feet of fence along the southwest side of my place, so had to lock them back up in the northeast side. But I think we have recovered from the drought.

Never seen my cows looking this good by May 7th, so not worried about worms. And my calves look like they'll be pushing 550 to 600 lbs by July, so I think they're good. But I'll check out Cydectin.
With grass like that why is your, "my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now,"? With those kind of numbers I figured you were on sagebrush.
 
With grass like that why is your, "my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now,"? With those kind of numbers I figured you were on sagebrush.
That is what I thought. We figure ball park 5 acres per cow per month. And that is in country like this.

P5132541.JPG
 
Out on the Red Dessert they figure 35-40 acres per month. I still need to get out to the ranch to check fences; there is one place near the old railroad siding that the snow drifts over and breaks the fence down in several spots, the rest is not so bad but still needs to be checked.
 
With grass like that why is your, "my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now,"? With those kind of numbers I figured you were on sagebrush.
Because it didn't rain from July to October last year. I destocked instead of buying hay. Had around 12000 lbs that would have grown to about 15000 by now. Wasn't sure I'd get spring rains and didn't want to try to feed through it.

I sold my heavy bull and heaviest cows, along with one that lost her calf. Kept the smaller more productive ones.

Was thinking about restocking if we had a good spring green up, but at 1500 to 2000 for a bred cow, I'll pass.

Not in the mood to risk 6000 to 10000 dollars right now, and the forecast is for La Niña to start again by August. Figure I'll just let my place recover, keep all my heifers, and think on the bull for the future.

Like I said in my other thread, I'm supposed to discuss about getting a Wagyu bull in July, but I'm 50/50 on that one. We'll see.

Here's a pic of the stockpile I had going into October. A 10" rain in October saved the winter grazing this past year. Got lucky.
 

Attachments

  • 6557371f-1f6f-426d-9f3e-85047ecbd97e.jpeg
    6557371f-1f6f-426d-9f3e-85047ecbd97e.jpeg
    603.2 KB · Views: 11
With grass like that why is your, "my stocking rate is 1000 lbs to 26.6 acres right now,"? With those kind of numbers I figured you were on sagebrush.
Because it didn't rain from July to October last year. I destocked instead of buying hay. Had around 12000 lbs that would have grown to about 15000 by now. Wasn't sure I'd get spring rains and didn't want to try to feed through it.
I was not clear with my thought. Cydectin injectable not pour on.
View attachment 44617
Hope I don't have to find out. But if I buy a thin cow anytime in the future, I'll try to inject instead of pour on.
 
Looks like you should be giving grass classes....lol. We were also out by October.
Fed hay for 5 months this year. Cost too much. Think I'm gonna cut it to about a dozen.
Grass kinda running short here already. Don't want to be in the same pasture as last year. Had our last calf today. Only one bull this year.
Time to sell the 2 year olds. .
 
I go into each year trying to graze 11 months. My issue this year is too much grass and not enough cattle. Im ok with that.
I can never figure out where the most profitable point is. Should i run more animals and feed more hay? Or is there more profit in less numbers and no hay at all.
 
I'm with @Brute 23. The argument I had to have 3 to 5 times with family this last winter over not feeding any hay was tough, but I finally won it. I was accused of abusing cattle more than once when I said it's OK to let them lose a point on their BCS during the winter if they were in good condition at fall breeding. Luckily, the green winter grass and early spring is making me look good.

If they all calve on time this fall, I think I will have won the argument for good.

But I wouldn't pay attention to my posts on grass just yet @4hfarms. Haven't really proven anything yet.

If I can get up to 9 or 10 head that consistently calve in the fall and don't need hay, then I think that would mean something. But the central Texas weather seems to mandate slower going than I'd like. My prediction is that fall rains will not be consistent this year, so I might be back in drought management mode.

One thing I am proud of is that we had a 10 inch rain in October and then an 8 inch rain here in early May and my soil was covered up enough that we had no erosion, even though all the Ashe Juniper needles got washed off of our 3% slopes and out into the middle of my crop fields. I figure the needles will help lower the PH back towards 7 (my soil ph is 7.9), so I'm pretty sanguine about it.

But if anyone in central Texas is thinking on moving to year-round grazing, I'd say really check it out. It is looking quite feasible, and I've been surprised to find that central Texas cattle could even potentially have native green grasses year round to forage on. Supposedly our place has wild rye, Texas winter grass, burr clover, and maybe some fescue (not sure). And this way of grazing your place is quite simple.

You just need:

1) Multiple paddocks for rotation and stockpiling (I have 6 paddocks, but electric fences are a cheap way to do this).
2) Moderate framed cows that are medium to low milkers (I have angus/red angus genetics crossed with corriente and Hereford). If you have heavy milkers, this is not the way to go. They'll lose too much condition on stockpile in a bad winter. Too many of your cows won't breed back or will lose calves.
3) A good water set up so you can always rotate them like you want. We always give them access to at least one pond and one well-fed water trough, unless we are there. If we are there then sometimes just a water trough if we want to intensively graze a paddock.
4) Soil that has high water storage capacity. The clay loam that covers most of my place will hold about 10 inches of water. This is important so that your grass can stay green long after the rain stops. I have found that, as long as you don't graze it, some grasses will even keep green through August if you had good May/June rain. This can give your cows green grazing even when the surrounding countryside is covered in dry/brown/dead grass. Once you graze it in late June/July/August, though, it turns brown and dry quickly and doesn't grow until Sept/Oct rains.
5) Judicious use of 30% cooked protein tubs and salt. To this point, I have just kept out a tub full time. The cows don't actually hit the tub that hard if they have green grass. Also, to slow down their consumption on a partially eaten tub if you do get rain, you can just throw a salt block directly on top of the tub. That also slows them down and makes your money stretch a bit without having to do anything but move a salt block. If things turn dry again I just remove the block and let them have full use of the tub. Because the tubs come with the same minerals as the other products advertised as mineral-only supplements, if your cattle have a tub I wouldn't worry about putting out minerals for them unless they show signs of deficiency, especially when the grass is green.
6) If they have green grass, I wait till the tub is gone and switch to loose mineral mixed with loose salt until conditions require a tube again, then switch back to 5) above.

This method so far seems to be a low cost/low materials/time input method that will pay for the upkeep and taxes of the land. Over the past year I spent most of my time mending fences and controlling brush like mesquites. Haven't spent any time feeding hay or messing with calves, except to load them up to sell. So, again, I recommend it.

Would love to hear from anybody else in central Texas who also uses this method or something similar. Always open to learning how to improve.
 
I'm not big on letting cows lose condition. I'll let them lose a little fat through certain times but every thing hinges on body condition there is a fine line between saving and costing. I watch my family not spend money on things like feed and think they are doing all the good but it costing them more than they are saving. The only thing they are doing right is not spending money on things they don't understand. A lot of their hesitancy to not spend comes from spending and not getting results. Now, rather than trying to learn some thing new they just don't do any thing.

My issue with hay, for people in the south that can get away with it, is the cost to handle and produce it has gone up so much that it has really killed its value. There are better feeds that that you can add to stockpiled pasture and get a better value. For us, it's wcs, it was a game changer. People don't keep good books and honestly evaluate the cost of things. It's easier to just keep doing it the same way you always have.
 
I go into each year trying to graze 11 months. My issue this year is too much grass and not enough cattle. Im ok with that.
I can never figure out where the most profitable point is. Should i run more animals and feed more hay? Or is there more profit in less numbers and no hay at all.
I was thinking about trying to buy hay, store it for up to three years inside, and only feed it if it started to get old or was needed. Was going to start this summer if hay prices were low. But after seeing my fields this past week, decided to risk not buying any.

I think maybe be willing to feed once out of every 3 years might be the most profitable, but haven't put it in a spreadsheet. My thinking is that if you are destocking every drought, you lose calves and maybe money through increased cost of restocking at higher prices later. But if you have enough hay bought in cheap years at low prices to feed 2 or 3 years later during a six month drought, it could pencil out better. But if longer than 6 months, I'd still say destock.

In hindsight, I could have made it through the winter on $1000 of hay and kept my original herd, but the risk still didn't make sense to me at the time. I'd be ok if I sold that herd now, but my farm would be completely denuded and could take even longer to recover if we had another dry spell going on right now.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that if you have to risk your grass or your cows, risk the cows. Easier to replace them in most cases.
 
I'm not big on letting cows lose condition. I'll let them lose a little fat through certain times but every thing hinges on body condition there is a fine line between saving and costing. I watch my family not spend money on things like feed and think they are doing all the good but it costing them more than they are saving. The only thing they are doing right is not spending money on things they don't understand. A lot of their hesitancy to not spend comes from spending and not getting results. Now, rather than trying to learn some thing new they just don't do any thing.

My issue with hay, for people in the south that can get away with it, is the cost to handle and produce it has gone up so much that it has really killed its value. There are better feeds that that you can add to stockpiled pasture and get a better value. For us, it's wcs, it was a game changer. People don't keep good books and honestly evaluate the cost of things. It's easier to just keep doing it the same way you always have.
In central Texas the most efficient seems to be liquid protein/molasses followed by cubes.

But if you're not there, tubs.

But I don't know about cottonseed. Never asked to price that here.

You're right on the hay. It doesn't pencil most of the time. Add in labor, almost never.

As far as body condition, I'm going off of sunup tv's advice. But we'll see what my breedback was.
 

Latest posts

Top