crazy worming q

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Beefy":34gyujh2 said:
i thought larva were larva and worms were worms.
Is that like "yeast is yeast and nest is nest and never the mane shall tweet"?
 
LRTX1":1gvqoc35 said:
redcowsrule33":1gvqoc35 said:
Hate to burst all y'alls bubble but the worms do go dormant in the cows during the winter. Any larvae ingested in the fall bury themselves in the glands in the stomach walls and become inhibited until spring, when they come back out and resume their normal life cycle. Some wormers kill these larvae, some can't get to them, you have to read the label.

Does the same apply to the non-artic states?
I'm wondering how they know when the lst day of winter is and then when the lst day spring arrives and lose their inhibitions. :lol2:
 
I worm with cydectin pour on in the spring and fall. My vet says not to rotate and keep using it as long as it works. If i missed a fall worming i would just wait until spring unless i thought i had a severe worm load.
 
B&M Farms":1r54wjdo said:
I worm with cydectin pour on in the spring and fall. My vet says not to rotate and keep using it as long as it works. If i missed a fall worming i would just wait until spring unless i thought i had a severe worm load.
I've been using Cydectin for a couple of eyars now....Typically worm spring and fall and any other time I cow goes thru the chute for any reason. Probably wasted a lot of wormer but just something I've done even when I used other wormers.
 
You have to understand the cattle worm life cycle to understand this. Adult worms lay eggs in the cow's gut which are shed through the manure. The eggs hatch in the manure and emerge in the larvae stage, then migrate to the grass where they are ingested by the cattle. The larvae then remain in the gut and develop into adult worms and lay more eggs, thus repeating the cycle. For the eggs to hatch there must be warmth and oxygen. For eggs shed in the summer this happens in a few days. In the winter when the manure patties are cold and soggy, the eggs may lay there for weeks until the manure warms up and begins to dry out letting more oxygen in before they hatch. Once hatched the larvae need mositure to migrate to the grass, and die in a few days if not eaten by the cows.
Deworming breaks this life cycle by killing off adult worms, larvae, and eggs (depending on the product used) in the cow's gut thus reducing the number of eggs shed.

B&M Farms":1zq6u5et said:
I worm with cydectin pour on in the spring and fall. My vet says not to rotate and keep using it as long as it works. If i missed a fall worming i would just wait until spring unless i thought i had a severe worm load.

Same recommendation as my vet because, if you deworm with ivomec type some worms will survive. then you change to a safeguard type some worms will survive that also. So over time of repeating this process you will end up with a population resistant to both types of dewormer. Use one until it doesn't work then switch to another type. I will add the only way I know of for sure if a dewormer is working is doing a fecal count. If you can physically see a "wormy" animal most of that animal's production is already lost, but treat to rebuild for next time.
 
TexasBred":3oktgyje said:
LRTX1":3oktgyje said:
redcowsrule33":3oktgyje said:
Hate to burst all y'alls bubble but the worms do go dormant in the cows during the winter. Any larvae ingested in the fall bury themselves in the glands in the stomach walls and become inhibited until spring, when they come back out and resume their normal life cycle. Some wormers kill these larvae, some can't get to them, you have to read the label.

Does the same apply to the non-artic states?
I'm wondering how they know when the lst day of winter is and then when the lst day spring arrives and lose their inhibitions. :lol2:

Yes, it does occur in southern states below the permafrost line (see page 10 of the pdf at http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonl...8-FE318D6635A9/4101/RIS104CattleParasites.pdf)

Based on the ability of the worms to inhibit in different seasons based on location, I would assume that they are sensitive to hormone levels secreted by the pituitary, reproductive system, etc to cue them in on when to re-emerge.
 
Mid South Guy":2fdjvyrn said:
You have to understand the cattle worm life cycle to understand this. Adult worms lay eggs in the cow's gut which are shed through the manure. The eggs hatch in the manure and emerge in the larvae stage, then migrate to the grass where they are ingested by the cattle. The larvae then remain in the gut and develop into adult worms and lay more eggs, thus repeating the cycle. For the eggs to hatch there must be warmth and oxygen. For eggs shed in the summer this happens in a few days. In the winter when the manure patties are cold and soggy, the eggs may lay there for weeks until the manure warms up and begins to dry out letting more oxygen in before they hatch. Once hatched the larvae need mositure to migrate to the grass, and die in a few days if not eaten by the cows.
Deworming breaks this life cycle by killing off adult worms, larvae, and eggs (depending on the product used) in the cow's gut thus reducing the number of eggs shed.

B&M Farms":2fdjvyrn said:
I worm with cydectin pour on in the spring and fall. My vet says not to rotate and keep using it as long as it works. If i missed a fall worming i would just wait until spring unless i thought i had a severe worm load.

Same recommendation as my vet because, if you deworm with ivomec type some worms will survive. then you change to a safeguard type some worms will survive that also. So over time of repeating this process you will end up with a population resistant to both types of dewormer. Use one until it doesn't work then switch to another type. I will add the only way I know of for sure if a dewormer is working is doing a fecal count. If you can physically see a "wormy" animal most of that animal's production is already lost, but treat to rebuild for next time.

I don't look for a wormy animal. I would just expect a higher worm load if conditions such as alot of wet weather of grazing short grass favored it.
 
Rangenerd":2nyj61w9 said:
safeguard doesn't kill liver fluke. If you are in an area where liver flukes are found you need to use something better than safeguard. We use Vabazen (sp).

And neither does pour ons.
 
Rangenerd":14n37gce said:
safeguard doesn't kill liver fluke. If you are in an area where liver flukes are found you need to use something better than safeguard. We use Vabazen (sp).

My vet recommended ivomec plus injectable for liver flukes, worked very well. He also recommended I use cydectin pour on in the spring. That's what I did last year worked pretty good, I noticed the cows showed a greater change faster with the ivomec injectable though.
 
Are the Safegaurd cubes like a mineral block? Is there anything you can put in the watering trough? I've heard of a certain type of soap ( I believe it was called Shacklebee's) that you put right in the water for a couple days but can't remember the specifics. I haven't had a worm issue yet in the past 5 years because of low cattle #'s per acre and frequent pasture moves but would like to find something effective and easy to use just in case.
 

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