? For the Fence Builders

[Lucky]

We are fixing to build 2,600 of fixed knot fence for a cross fence. I've done some fixed knot in high pressure areas but the longest run I've put up is about a 800' wing that leads to the corral. My question is about brace post.

I watched a video on T gripples for end terminations and the guy got to talking about braces for high tensil. On his braces the 3 uprights were setup just like a double H but, the horizontal pipe went from midupright height to ground level at the next upright. He swore this was the strongest way to build a brace. I've always built double H braces with both cross sections at around 2/3 height and horizontal. I've done a few with the second cross section as a kicker to the ground but for me it takes more time while working alone. He also used galvenized pipe.

What do yall think?

 

[Ebenezer]

I do a 10' H braces and the horizontal is at 37" on one post and level unless a severe slope. The length of the diagonal tightening wires is the measure of the total strength of the brace.

 

[simme]

I think the term is rance brace. Seems like that is the popular way of building a brace now with some of the full time fencers. Makes sense in that the flex in a vertical post is mostly above ground. Post is pretty well fixed and held in the ground. So attach mid way up or a little higher on your end post to brace the whole post and attach close to ground on the other for best chance that the attachment point does not move. Probably ok with the horizontal brace as long as posts are deep enough in the ground. At some point, "best" is academic.

If you are into FB, there is a group U.S.A. Ag. Fencers with a lot of discussion and pictures.

 

[Lucky]

I'm trying some new materials on this fence so might a well try the Rance brace too, also found it called an N brace. Makes sense that it will work and be as strong as the double H not sure that it'll be any better though.

 

[Otha]

Almost every corner in my area has a diagonal brace or "kicker" is what alot of people call them. What little I know about shapes is that a triangle is stronger than a square when resisting against tension like that. The guy that taught me to build fence said that final post that's on the lower end of the diagonal brace is the most important post. Be sure to drive it plenty deep or use plenty of concrete. We use oilfield pipe here so making the brace just takes a little cutting torch time and no more welding than a double H.

 

[callmefence]

Almost every corner in my area has a diagonal brace or "kicker" is what alot of people call them. What little I know about shapes is that a triangle is stronger than a square when resisting against tension like that. The guy that taught me to build fence said that final post that's on the lower end of the diagonal brace is the most important post. Be sure to drive it plenty deep or use plenty of concrete. We use oilfield pipe here so making the brace just takes a little cutting torch time and no more welding than a double H.

You got good advice. I've never understood why someone would build a double H. Instead of a H with a diagonal kicker. Waste of materials and labor.
We use a 8' stick of pipe drove to 7' deep for the stubby.

 

[Lucky]

You got good advice. I've never understood why someone would build a double H. Instead of a H with a diagonal kicker. Waste of materials and labor.
We use a 8' stick of pipe drove to 7' deep for the stubby.

I hate to admit it Fence but I have hell cutting the diaganol kicker to fit right so just dont do it. Any tips on that? Maybe you could make a new youtube video.

The other thing I don't like about the kicker is that everyond cuts the stubby off maybe 2' above the ground then sets the first T post 10' from there. This leaves 20' between the first two post. First post being the H second is the T post.

 

[callmefence]

I hate to admit it Fence but I have hell cutting the diaganol kicker to fit right so just dont do it. Any tips on that? Maybe you could make a new youtube video.

The other thing I don't like about the kicker is that everyond cuts the stubby off maybe 2' above the ground then sets the first T post 10' from there. This leaves 20' between the first two post. First post being the H second is the T post.

Not me . First tpost is measured off the Second H post. Why the hell would you measure off the stubby.

 

[Atimm693]

I hate to admit it Fence but I have hell cutting the diaganol kicker to fit right so just dont do it. Any tips on that? Maybe you could make a new youtube video.

The other thing I don't like about the kicker is that everyond cuts the stubby off maybe 2' above the ground then sets the first T post 10' from there. This leaves 20' between the first two post. First post being the H second is the T post.

It's more labor but you can cut slip collars that fit over or inside your brace pipe, making a precise measurement unimportant.

I use collars on corner braces and tall gate overhead braces. Just makes things a whole lot easier.

Usually I will cut a bunch of them on rainy days, and notch them out so they fit well onto your post.

 

[callmefence]

For the most part we cope everything. The kicker just takes practice.
One way though to make it easy is to use 4" for your post and 2" for your bracing.
No coping required. You can cut it with a chop saw.

 

[Otha]

I hate to admit it Fence but I have hell cutting the diaganol kicker to fit right so just dont do it. Any tips on that? Maybe you could make a new youtube video.

The other thing I don't like about the kicker is that everyond cuts the stubby off maybe 2' above the ground then sets the first T post 10' from there. This leaves 20' between the first two post. First post being the H second is the T post.

I like to leave the "stubby" the same height as the other pipe. I Think it looks a better and uses just a few extra feet of pipe. We have been cutting 10 foot pieces of pipe and driving 5 in the ground. Then trim to tops to make them even.

 

[callmefence]

I like to leave the "stubby" the same height as the other pipe. I Think it looks a better and uses just a few extra feet of pipe. We have been cutting 10 foot pieces of pipe and driving 5 in the ground. Then trim to tops to make them even.

What kinda driver you using?

 

[GoWyo]

I like to leave the "stubby" the same height as the other pipe. I Think it looks a better and uses just a few extra feet of pipe. We have been cutting 10 foot pieces of pipe and driving 5 in the ground. Then trim to tops to make them even.

What is a quick way of trimming the tops of pipe posts?

 

[Lucky]

Torch, cordless port a band, or cordless grinder w/ cutoff wheel. Cordless port a band is by far the easiest

 

[Otha]

What kinda driver you using?

Skid steer mounted Danuser hammer I think it is. We got into some rock over the weekend and found some stuff we couldn't drive through.

 

[callmefence]

Skid steer mounted Danuser hammer I think it is. We got into some rock over the weekend and found some stuff we couldn't drive through.

I've got a couple of danuser hammers. About as good as it gets for driving rock because you can apply down pressure and hit at the same time. I've got a new quick attach driver I'm really liking because you don't have to follow the post as much. Makes driving plum much easier and faster.
I asked because you said 10' post. Can be a tight fit getting over the post. I usually cut mine 9'9" so I don't have to fight it.

 

[Lucky]

I always fight with keeping the post plumb when driving. Our old Case skid steer was a radial lift so you was always adjusting a little back and forth. The new Kubota has a vertical lift so it's much easier to drive the post straight downward. I always apply down pressure when I drive but last summer when my nephew helped me out he just set the driver on the post started the hydraulics and hit the float switch. The down pressure of just the arms was enought to keep the post moving and drove them perfectly plumb. It took a few extra minutes per post but nobody had to stand there making sure he was straight. This is in Blackland with a Danuser T3.

 

[Otha]

I've got a couple of danuser hammers. About as good as it gets for driving rock because you can apply down pressure and hit at the same time. I've got a new quick attach driver I'm really liking because you don't have to follow the post as much. Makes driving plum much easier and faster.
I asked because you said 10' post. Can be a tight fit getting over the post. I usually cut mine 9'9" so I don't have to fight it.

Ya depending on the terrein sometimes have to lean the post over to get the driver on it. Only reason we cut them that long is you can get 3 of them out of a joint of pipe. Last pipe I got was only 29 foot so they ended up a little shorter.

 

[GoWyo]

Ya depending on the terrein sometimes have to lean the post over to get the driver on it. Only reason we cut them that long is you can get 3 of them out of a joint of pipe. Last pipe I got was only 29 foot so they ended up a little shorter.

Can you dig down 6-8" with a starter hole to provide the room to get post under the hammer?

 

[Lucky]

Can you dig down 6-8" with a starter hole to provide the room to get post under the hammer?

I bought a bunch of precut 10' post and am trying to decide if I should cut them off 6-8" or dig down a foot. I've got an auger for the skid so that may be what I do.