fence tips and tricks

[fence_it]

That's actually a girl in Indiana that sells them on ebay. :lol: (I've been sleeping with her, so she gives me a discount) Glad you got them, but call next time. We give everyone on the forum a good discount. ;-)

Will do. Do you guys stock the ez-pull or ultra-crimp tool by chance?

We don't stock them, but can get them in our next container if you want. Livewire in CA might have them.

I'll let you know if I decide to bite the bullet. I've got a brand new nicopress pair I'm using but just being a one slot crimper their limited.

 

[fence_it]

We are doing a fence this June, all steel. First time in 4 or 5 years. 3400 feet straight line, along a field edge. We are going to use 949-6 toughstrand. Already bought some 2 7/8 oil pipe for the braces, line posts we all be tposts.

We are going to auger and concrete all the pipe, dad wants to build angle braces, but we have never pulled HT fixed knot woven off one before. It makes me a bit nervous, nothing worse than pulling a brace out of the ground. The pipe will be 4 or 5' deep so that should help.

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

 

[greybeard]

Dang, that is kinda high for 2 7/8 oilfield pipe. I bought a few joints (used) for about $40 each, 31' sticks and thought I was getting robbed then..

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

We are doing a fence this June, all steel. First time in 4 or 5 years. 3400 feet straight line, along a field edge. We are going to use 949-6 toughstrand. Already bought some 2 7/8 oil pipe for the braces, line posts we all be tposts.

We are going to auger and concrete all the pipe, dad wants to build angle braces, but we have never pulled HT fixed knot woven off one before. It makes me a bit nervous, nothing worse than pulling a brace out of the ground. The pipe will be 4 or 5' deep so that should help.

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

Looking good. That looks like some easy going ground to work in! Check into SS40, if you ever have the need for galvanized pipe. I would think that in your area, raw pipe is going to be awfull hard on wire? I can send you the data sheets on the SS40 if you want.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

file:///C:/Users/inluk/Documents/SS40.pdf%20150.pdf

file:///C:/Users/inluk/Documents/SS40.pdf%20150.pdf#page=1

SS40 data sheet.....

 

[fence_it]

We are doing a fence this June, all steel. First time in 4 or 5 years. 3400 feet straight line, along a field edge. We are going to use 949-6 toughstrand. Already bought some 2 7/8 oil pipe for the braces, line posts we all be tposts.

We are going to auger and concrete all the pipe, dad wants to build angle braces, but we have never pulled HT fixed knot woven off one before. It makes me a bit nervous, nothing worse than pulling a brace out of the ground. The pipe will be 4 or 5' deep so that should help.

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

Looking good. That looks like some easy going ground to work in! Check into SS40, if you ever have the need for galvanized pipe. I would think that in your area, raw pipe is going to be awfull hard on wire? I can send you the data sheets on the SS40 if you want.

Not sure how the raw pipe lasts. My thoughts are this will be a 40 to 50 year fence with the class 3 galvanized wire. While a wood fence may last 20 to 30 years. We have a very high moisture environment 9 months out of the year and a very dry one for the other 3 months.

 

[libertygarden]

Here is a Double H in Black Prairie clay soil. The holes are 4' deep, back filled with 1' of QuickCrete and 3 ' of road base gravel. I have not pulled wire because I need the brace on the other end.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Not sure how the raw pipe lasts. My thoughts are this will be a 40 to 50 year fence with the class 3 galvanized wire. While a wood fence may last 20 to 30 years. We have a very high moisture environment 9 months out of the year and a very dry one for the other 3 months.[/quote]

Where the pipe and wire meet is where you'll see the first failure. The galvanized wire will act as a sacrificial anode for the rusty post, and that's where you'll start to see rusty wire. It works fine in the desert, but not so fine in high moisture areas. I'll bet it still outlasts the wood post option though. :nod: You guys make any progress with the new post driver yet?

 

[Lucky]

Here is a Double H in Black Prairie clay soil. The holes are 4' deep, back filled with 1' of QuickCrete and 3 ' of road base gravel. I have not pulled wire because I need the brace on the other end.

Looks like it'll work to me. That's how I build wooden ones also. I'm in the same type soil.

 

[fence_it]

Not sure how the raw pipe lasts. My thoughts are this will be a 40 to 50 year fence with the class 3 galvanized wire. While a wood fence may last 20 to 30 years. We have a very high moisture environment 9 months out of the year and a very dry one for the other 3 months.

Where the pipe and wire meet is where you'll see the first failure. The galvanized wire will act as a sacrificial anode for the rusty post, and that's where you'll start to see rusty wire. It works fine in the desert, but not so fine in high moisture areas. I'll bet it still outlasts the wood post option though. :nod: You guys make any progress with the new post driver yet?[/quote]


That is interesting and good to know. Only work we have done with the post driver is convert it to self contained with a pto pump. Tractor we have now won't lift it, so after a bigger model. After that we'll attempt to fabricate a rock spike. How long until your new driver shows up from England?

 

[fence_it]

We are doing a fence this June, all steel. First time in 4 or 5 years. 3400 feet straight line, along a field edge. We are going to use 949-6 toughstrand. Already bought some 2 7/8 oil pipe for the braces, line posts we all be tposts.

We are going to auger and concrete all the pipe, dad wants to build angle braces, but we have never pulled HT fixed knot woven off one before. It makes me a bit nervous, nothing worse than pulling a brace out of the ground. The pipe will be 4 or 5' deep so that should help.

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

Finished today. Braces didn't move an inch. Let them cure over the weekend.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Not sure how the raw pipe lasts. My thoughts are this will be a 40 to 50 year fence with the class 3 galvanized wire. While a wood fence may last 20 to 30 years. We have a very high moisture environment 9 months out of the year and a very dry one for the other 3 months.

Where the pipe and wire meet is where you'll see the first failure. The galvanized wire will act as a sacrificial anode for the rusty post, and that's where you'll start to see rusty wire. It works fine in the desert, but not so fine in high moisture areas. I'll bet it still outlasts the wood post option though. :nod: You guys make any progress with the new post driver yet?

That is interesting and good to know. Only work we have done with the post driver is convert it to self contained with a pto pump. Tractor we have now won't lift it, so after a bigger model. After that we'll attempt to fabricate a rock spike. How long until your new driver shows up from England?[/quote]


Should have it in my hands by the 21st or 22nd.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

We are doing a fence this June, all steel. First time in 4 or 5 years. 3400 feet straight line, along a field edge. We are going to use 949-6 toughstrand. Already bought some 2 7/8 oil pipe for the braces, line posts we all be tposts.

We are going to auger and concrete all the pipe, dad wants to build angle braces, but we have never pulled HT fixed knot woven off one before. It makes me a bit nervous, nothing worse than pulling a brace out of the ground. The pipe will be 4 or 5' deep so that should help.

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

Finished today. Braces didn't move an inch. Let them cure over the weekend.

I'd have to pay extra to have a path that clean to fence. Looks good.

 

[fence_it]

Here is a Double H in Black Prairie clay soil. The holes are 4' deep, back filled with 1' of QuickCrete and 3 ' of road base gravel. I have not pulled wire because I need the brace on the other end.

Now that is a double h built right. What kind of posts are those?

 

[fence_it]

Got started on it today. Set all of the pipe braces. Was fun doing something a little different for a change. Brace every 660'. Going to tie 949-6 on at each brace and stretch from the middle. They all are setting up real solid and should be ready to stretch on Friday. First pipe job really for us that wasn't DOT fence. We aren't set up for in-field welding so this is our solution. Pre-fabricated angle braces. Not the prettiest but it should work. Farmer said he doesn't want any wood because of rot concerns. Fence is to keep sheep out of about 30 acres of newly planted hazelnuts. Real nice ground. All steel fences are very uncommon here. We had to go out of our way to find this 2 7/8 oil pipe (not cheap either, $22 for a 10' post) could have use galvanized chain link pipe but it would not have been as strong.

Finished today. Braces didn't move an inch. Let them cure over the weekend.

I'd have to pay extra to have a path that clean to fence. Looks good.

Thanks. We don't get many like this. But once in awhile you have to catch a break.

 

[libertygarden]

@fence_it, thank you for the comment. Those are 6" by 8' treated green posts, but I gave them two coats of used motor oil and diesel, 50/50 mix.

 

[fence_it]

@fence_it, thank you for the comment. Those are 6" by 8' treated green posts, but I gave them two coats of used motor oil and diesel, 50/50 mix.

They look good. That should really help their life.

 

[jltrent]

Never knew what hit him...

No need for step 3 with those......

 

[libertygarden]

@fence_it, quick question. The wire I used for the brace was barbless wire. Should I have used 12 ga. bracing wire. instead? I tightened it with a stick, but a week later it was loose. Looks like the wire gave some. I haven't pulled wire form the assembly. It's just like in the picture I posted. Thanks.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Low carbon brace wire instead of HT is like riding a bike cross country vs flying. Low carbon will keep on stretching, HT won't. A twist stick in HT is a good way to get hurt. Use a ratchet strainer, a Gripple, or tighten with a chain strainer and tie or crimp with HT brace wire......Or just use a Gripple brace kit and be done with it.

Also, on a double brace, if you run the brace wire from the top of the second brace post to the base of the strain post, you'll increase the holding power of your strain post by about 15%. By flattening out the brace wire, the upward force is reduced which helps prevent the strainer from popping out under load.