fence tips and tricks

[callmefence]

Callmefence,

So you recommend that in clay soil pipe be used for corner braces and it be pounded in to more than 4 feet? I got an estimate for a professional to do the perimeter including the fence clearing and it came out to $4/foot or $30K. And he was using 10' telephone posts. That's when I decided to give it a shot myself. Every time I pull a tick off I question the wisdom of that decision.

I recommend you use pipe in all situations. If you're in the Texas blackland. I would use 10' post drove to 4 1/2 foot and a dead man drove to 8' plus
All welded. So you end up with 19 plus feet of pipe in the ground on every brace. I live where the hill country and blackland meet. Literally on my property.
Black land soil will move building's. Nowhere is depth more important. The price is Not bad. Just don't give a dime for any work not completed and inspected. And don't turn your back on anyone. You might get short posted. Your welcome to contact me I don't venture to far. But I might know someone.

 

[callmefence]

You fence guys like tight fences. But consider, you are shoveling shyt into the tide. There is a Law of Thermodynamics that states - all matter seeks its lowest energy level. That means:

1. Wire fatigues.
2. Braces eventually surrender.
3. Materials decay as they revert to their natural state.

You are only delaying the inevitable. But Bless your hearts. You give it your best effort and we love you for it. Lol

Reference:
The principle of minimum energy is essentially a restatement of the second law of thermodynamics. It states that for a closed system, with constant external parameters and entropy, the internal energy will decrease and approach a minimum value at equilibrium. External parameters generally means the volume, but may include other parameters which are specified externally, such as a constant magnetic field.

Really in truly there's a small amount of truth to that. Thing is if you do 100 jobs right you'll get paid and make a living. You screw one up. You either fix it out of pocket or you get your name drug through the mud. And have to become a gypsy to make a living. Lots of the fence on place is piece mill. For various and good reason. My customers are not. Sometimes I have braces pull. It happens , sometimes a wire breaks. If it's my fault I'll fix it. Weather it's a week old or ten years old. If you get into with the tractor you can pay me.
I've got wire on this place. Low tensile..
That's pushing forty. It's still tight enough that a grown man can ladder climb it between the post. Not because it was stretched and tied off to ridiculous tension, " after having a dodad hung on it. But because it was stretched properly. It maintains its tension all the while putting a manageable strain on the brace. Anybody can use their Google and be a internet expert in anything. But most of the real expertise in this occupation is in the heads of men who never used Google.. and are actually old enough to say the built a 50year fence.....

Embrace the dodad. It offers proof of consistency and starts converstions that lead to better conversations. A good fencer doesn't need one, but it doesn't hurt for proving quality in the midst of a sale.

I'll leave the dodad embracing to you . Lol

 

[libertygarden]

Thanks Fenceman, regarding pulling wire, do you start top to bottom or bottom to top?

 

[callmefence]

Thanks Fenceman, regarding pulling wire, do you start top to bottom or bottom to top?

I pull the net as a whole. all at once. I start making off at the bottom then the top and fill in from there. theres some videos back in this thread. ill dig em out when I get a chance

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Thanks Fenceman, regarding pulling wire, do you start top to bottom or bottom to top?

I pull the net as a whole. all at once. I start making off at the bottom then the top and fill in from there. theres some videos back in this thread. ill dig em out when I get a chance

I could have missed something Fence, but I think he's working with barb wire? I like to work from the top down, just because the wire won't hang up as much.

 

[callmefence]

Thanks Fenceman, regarding pulling wire, do you start top to bottom or bottom to top?

I pull the net as a whole. all at once. I start making off at the bottom then the top and fill in from there. theres some videos back in this thread. ill dig em out when I get a chance

I could have missed something Fence, but I think he's working with barb wire? I like to work from the top down, just because the wire won't hang up as much.

agreed. with barb wire everything goes top to bottom...thanks farm

 

[libertygarden]

Well, thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[libertygarden]

I tried renting a post hammer, but couldn't find one. So I dug a 4' deep holes for 8' posts and backfilled with 1' of concrete and the top 3' with road base. I also treated the posts with 50/50 used motor oil and diesel. The posts seem real solid, we'll see once I pull the wire.

 

[fence_it]

I tried renting a post hammer, but couldn't find one. So I dug a 4' deep holes for 8' posts and backfilled with 1' of concrete and the top 3' with road base. I also treated the posts with 50/50 used motor oil and diesel. The posts seem real solid, we'll see once I pull the wire.

Just build a good brace and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[fence_it]

An American fence competition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GYmaKs ... e=youtu.be

 

[greybeard]

An American fence competition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GYmaKs ... e=youtu.be

My eyes..or are some of them driving the posts in leaning?
(the guy that did the video needs to call it, like horse racing.. "And they're Off! Team one jumps out ahead, a member of team three dropped something and had to go back for it.. )

20 Mexicans with manual post hole diggers might give them all a run for their $$ too.

 

[callmefence]

I would like to invite them all for a fence building competition.

image upload

 

[fence_it]

I would like to invite them all for a fence building competition.

image upload

Just looking at that rock makes me want to scream.

Guess I aint moving to Texas after all.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

I would like to invite them all for a fence building competition.

image upload

Just looking at that rock makes me want to scream.

Guess I aint moving to Texas after all.

Not all the rock in Fence's territory is like that. Some of it is smooth as a parking lot and goes on for miles. The parking lot rock is much easier on tires. Lol

 

[greybeard]

closest rock on my place is about 1500' straight down unless you count pea gravel and unconsolidated iron ore

 

[fence_it]

Got my new strainrite chain strainer in yesterday. Bought it off some guy from Indiana selling them on ebay. Wonder who that could be... :lol:

Gave it a try today building braces and I was more than impressed. Sure beats the old worn out Hayes pair I was using. The spring loaded claws are slick, just crank away and the claws walk themselves up the chain.



I think I've said this before, but a good chain strainer is the best fencing tool you could ask for. We use them for a couple different things. Mainly tensioning brace wire, make two figure 8 wraps of 12.5ga HT and tension the two ends with the chain strainer, then join with two long crimp sleeves. We also use them for tensioning our "tight line", or a strand of HT smooth wire placed on the ground and stretched tight to serve as a string line for putting in the posts. Tie the wire on one end and tension with the chain strainer pulling off the post on the other end. Works well and creates a perfectly straight line. I believe the main use these chain grabs are designed for is tensioning strands of HT smooth wire in a "New Zealand" style fence. We put permanent ratchet strainers in all of our HT plain wire, whether it be electrified or cold, but the chain grab is still useful for pulling the wire from the center and then using the slop the chain strainer has pulled out to put in a ratchet. Much easier with a chain strainer in most cases, especially on long runs when it can be difficult to wind up a ratchet. Chain strainers work great for stretching barb wire as well, especially high tensile barb wire that a traditional come-along and wire dog can struggle to properly grip. All chain grabs are designed for use with high tensile wire so slipping isn't a problem until they get a lot of wear on them.

This thread has been a little quiet lately, so I figured it could use another fence tip.

 

[greybeard]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=115668&p=1512224#p1512224

I'm sure someone can improve on this idea significantly but it has been working for me.

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Got my new strainrite chain strainer in yesterday. Bought it off some guy from Indiana selling them on ebay. Wonder who that could be... :lol:

Gave it a try today building braces and I was more than impressed. Sure beats the old worn out Hayes pair I was using. The spring loaded claws are slick, just crank away and the claws walk themselves up the chain.



I think I've said this before, but a good chain strainer is the best fencing tool you could ask for. We use them for a couple different things. Mainly tensioning brace wire, make two figure 8 wraps of 12.5ga HT and tension the two ends with the chain strainer, then join with two long crimp sleeves. We also use them for tensioning our "tight line", or a strand of HT smooth wire placed on the ground and stretched tight to serve as a string line for putting in the posts. Tie the wire on one end and tension with the chain strainer pulling off the post on the other end. Works well and creates a perfectly straight line. I believe the main use these chain grabs are designed for is tensioning strands of HT smooth wire in a "New Zealand" style fence. We put permanent ratchet strainers in all of our HT plain wire, whether it be electrified or cold, but the chain grab is still useful for pulling the wire from the center and then using the slop the chain strainer has pulled out to put in a ratchet. Much easier with a chain strainer in most cases, especially on long runs when it can be difficult to wind up a ratchet. Chain strainers work great for stretching barb wire as well, especially high tensile barb wire that a traditional come-along and wire dog can struggle to properly grip. All chain grabs are designed for use with high tensile wire so slipping isn't a problem until they get a lot of wear on them.

This thread has been a little quiet lately, so I figured it could use another fence tip.

That's actually a girl in Indiana that sells them on ebay. :lol: (I've been sleeping with her, so she gives me a discount) Glad you got them, but call next time. We give everyone on the forum a good discount. ;-)

 

[fence_it]

Got my new strainrite chain strainer in yesterday. Bought it off some guy from Indiana selling them on ebay. Wonder who that could be... :lol:

Gave it a try today building braces and I was more than impressed. Sure beats the old worn out Hayes pair I was using. The spring loaded claws are slick, just crank away and the claws walk themselves up the chain.



I think I've said this before, but a good chain strainer is the best fencing tool you could ask for. We use them for a couple different things. Mainly tensioning brace wire, make two figure 8 wraps of 12.5ga HT and tension the two ends with the chain strainer, then join with two long crimp sleeves. We also use them for tensioning our "tight line", or a strand of HT smooth wire placed on the ground and stretched tight to serve as a string line for putting in the posts. Tie the wire on one end and tension with the chain strainer pulling off the post on the other end. Works well and creates a perfectly straight line. I believe the main use these chain grabs are designed for is tensioning strands of HT smooth wire in a "New Zealand" style fence. We put permanent ratchet strainers in all of our HT plain wire, whether it be electrified or cold, but the chain grab is still useful for pulling the wire from the center and then using the slop the chain strainer has pulled out to put in a ratchet. Much easier with a chain strainer in most cases, especially on long runs when it can be difficult to wind up a ratchet. Chain strainers work great for stretching barb wire as well, especially high tensile barb wire that a traditional come-along and wire dog can struggle to properly grip. All chain grabs are designed for use with high tensile wire so slipping isn't a problem until they get a lot of wear on them.

This thread has been a little quiet lately, so I figured it could use another fence tip.

That's actually a girl in Indiana that sells them on ebay. :lol: (I've been sleeping with her, so she gives me a discount) Glad you got them, but call next time. We give everyone on the forum a good discount. ;-)

Will do. Do you guys stock the ez-pull or ultra-crimp tool by chance?

 

[Farm Fence Solutions]

Got my new strainrite chain strainer in yesterday. Bought it off some guy from Indiana selling them on ebay. Wonder who that could be... :lol:

Gave it a try today building braces and I was more than impressed. Sure beats the old worn out Hayes pair I was using. The spring loaded claws are slick, just crank away and the claws walk themselves up the chain.



I think I've said this before, but a good chain strainer is the best fencing tool you could ask for. We use them for a couple different things. Mainly tensioning brace wire, make two figure 8 wraps of 12.5ga HT and tension the two ends with the chain strainer, then join with two long crimp sleeves. We also use them for tensioning our "tight line", or a strand of HT smooth wire placed on the ground and stretched tight to serve as a string line for putting in the posts. Tie the wire on one end and tension with the chain strainer pulling off the post on the other end. Works well and creates a perfectly straight line. I believe the main use these chain grabs are designed for is tensioning strands of HT smooth wire in a "New Zealand" style fence. We put permanent ratchet strainers in all of our HT plain wire, whether it be electrified or cold, but the chain grab is still useful for pulling the wire from the center and then using the slop the chain strainer has pulled out to put in a ratchet. Much easier with a chain strainer in most cases, especially on long runs when it can be difficult to wind up a ratchet. Chain strainers work great for stretching barb wire as well, especially high tensile barb wire that a traditional come-along and wire dog can struggle to properly grip. All chain grabs are designed for use with high tensile wire so slipping isn't a problem until they get a lot of wear on them.

This thread has been a little quiet lately, so I figured it could use another fence tip.

That's actually a girl in Indiana that sells them on ebay. :lol: (I've been sleeping with her, so she gives me a discount) Glad you got them, but call next time. We give everyone on the forum a good discount. ;-)

Will do. Do you guys stock the ez-pull or ultra-crimp tool by chance?

We don't stock them, but can get them in our next container if you want. Livewire in CA might have them.