fence tips and tricks

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fence_it":1s8nbvm2 said:
Pro tip: Stretch around corners by "piggybacking" stretcher bars. Avoids having to tie off at each corner or doing any of that nasty hard stapling! Only downside is you need 2 stretcher bars and 2 sets of pullers. Stretch to one corner with one stretcher bar and set of pullers, then go down to the next corner and stretch again with the other set. Then go back and take off the last set, and continue on until you reach the end. This is an especially effective method when fencing a field with 4 sides. To make the wire slide around the corner a little easier, use slider staples along with a dab of grease.

Click to expand...

Nice work Fence_it. You guys get your new driver up and running? We call that the "White Castle" on our crew. I'm pulling a stretch around a pond today that is 1,200' with 8 corners. When I string the wire out, I'll stick a set of Gripples in between each corner, and gut strain it somewhere near the middle. Get it tight with the stretcher bars and start working my way around with a Gripple tool. Sure is easier than tying off and stretching that many times.





 
Farm Fence Solutions":15u51sm1 said:
fence_it":15u51sm1 said:
Pro tip: Stretch around corners by "piggybacking" stretcher bars. Avoids having to tie off at each corner or doing any of that nasty hard stapling! Only downside is you need 2 stretcher bars and 2 sets of pullers. Stretch to one corner with one stretcher bar and set of pullers, then go down to the next corner and stretch again with the other set. Then go back and take off the last set, and continue on until you reach the end. This is an especially effective method when fencing a field with 4 sides. To make the wire slide around the corner a little easier, use slider staples along with a dab of grease.

Click to expand...

Nice work Fence_it. You guys get your new driver up and running? We call that the "White Castle" on our crew. I'm pulling a stretch around a pond today that is 1,200' with 8 corners. When I string the wire out, I'll stick a set of Gripples in between each corner, and gut strain it somewhere near the middle. Get it tight with the stretcher bars and start working my way around with a Gripple tool. Sure is easier than tying off and stretching that many times.





Click to expand...

Thanks, I actually got the grease idea from an earlier post you made. Worked well. Haven't figured out the driver thing yet, the wet season is nearly upon us and will be easy pounding for the shaver. Right now it is still a little dry, we are pre drilling holes with the Belltec and then filling them with water, then coming back through and pounding with the shaver. Has been working pretty good.
 
fence_it":1fv1gjxh said:
Farm Fence Solutions":1fv1gjxh said:
fence_it":1fv1gjxh said:
Pro tip: Stretch around corners by "piggybacking" stretcher bars. Avoids having to tie off at each corner or doing any of that nasty hard stapling! Only downside is you need 2 stretcher bars and 2 sets of pullers. Stretch to one corner with one stretcher bar and set of pullers, then go down to the next corner and stretch again with the other set. Then go back and take off the last set, and continue on until you reach the end. This is an especially effective method when fencing a field with 4 sides. To make the wire slide around the corner a little easier, use slider staples along with a dab of grease.

Click to expand...

Nice work Fence_it. You guys get your new driver up and running? We call that the "White Castle" on our crew. I'm pulling a stretch around a pond today that is 1,200' with 8 corners. When I string the wire out, I'll stick a set of Gripples in between each corner, and gut strain it somewhere near the middle. Get it tight with the stretcher bars and start working my way around with a Gripple tool. Sure is easier than tying off and stretching that many times.





Click to expand...

Thanks, I actually got the grease idea from an earlier post you made. Worked well. Haven't figured out the driver thing yet, the wet season is nearly upon us and will be easy pounding for the shaver. Right now it is still a little dry, we are pre drilling holes with the Belltec and then filling them with water, then coming back through and pounding with the shaver. Has been working pretty good.
Click to expand...

It's been a dry couple of years here, so I feel your pain. We have a new EVO available since I last sent you guys prices. It's nearly $10K cheaper. Same options, for the most part. (Rock auger and rock drill, hint hint)

EVO Compact


 
Question for the experts:
I'm going to be cutting a pasture in half. One side cows, the other horses. I plan on using no climb fence and some hot wires(eventually).
Is my best bet to put the no climb on the side of the posts towards the cattle since they are more likely to put on it than my horses?

something along these lines?
gaucho_horse_fence.jpg

Cattle would be on the near side, horses far side.
I'm estimating 10' spacing on 5"x8' posts?
 
ZachinCO":3hzqysxr said:
Question for the experts:
I'm going to be cutting a pasture in half. One side cows, the other horses. I plan on using no climb fence and some hot wires(eventually).
Is my best bet to put the no climb on the side of the posts towards the cattle since they are more likely to put on it than my horses?

something along these lines?
gaucho_horse_fence.jpg

Cattle would be on the near side, horses far side.
I'm estimating 10' spacing on 5"x8' posts?
Click to expand...

The sole purpose of no climb for horses is to keep feet from getting hung in the fence. A pawing horse can also possibly get it's foot between the post and the wire. The correct way to build the fence is to put the net on the HORSE side.
 
callmefence":pp30ftvf said:
ZachinCO":pp30ftvf said:
Question for the experts:
I'm going to be cutting a pasture in half. One side cows, the other horses. I plan on using no climb fence and some hot wires(eventually).
Is my best bet to put the no climb on the side of the posts towards the cattle since they are more likely to put on it than my horses?

something along these lines?
gaucho_horse_fence.jpg

Cattle would be on the near side, horses far side.
I'm estimating 10' spacing on 5"x8' posts?
Click to expand...

The sole purpose of no climb for horses is to keep feet from getting hung in the fence. A pawing horse can also possibly get it's foot between the post and the wire. The correct way to build the fence is to put the net on the HORSE side.
Click to expand...

Wasn't even thinking about that! Thank you.
I was thinking more about cattle pushing in, but a few hot wires might solve that.
 
I finished this brace yesterday at the farm. As you can see, I got the alignment off by a few inches because of the tree, so I added a 2 by 4. It's been holding 5 wires for 2 weeks of rain without moving, so I guess it's good. Yesterday, I just finished fastening the wire to the posts.

The posts are 4' deep with 1' of concrete and the rest backfilled with crushed concrete. I really wish the standard for corner posts was 9' instead of 8'. They seem a little short when buried them halfway in.

 
libertygarden":1pj1lkws said:
I finished this brace yesterday at the farm. As you can see, I got the alignment off by a few inches because of the tree, so I added a 2 by 4. It's been holding 5 wires for 2 weeks of rain without moving, so I guess it's good. Yesterday, I just finished fastening the wire to the posts.

The posts are 4' deep with 1' of concrete and the rest backfilled with crushed concrete. I really wish the standard for corner posts was 9' instead of 8'. They seem a little short when buried them halfway in.

Click to expand...

Looking good LG. I agree with you on the post length. I prefer a 10', but our post supplier only makes 8 and 9' larger diameter posts. They do make utility poles too, so I have them cut 40 footers to 10' before treating them. Of course, with pipe, it is much easier to get the length you need.
 
Thank you FFS. I've been looking for telephone posts, but they get snagged rather quickly by the pros around my area. The local lumber store has railroad ties which are about 6" longer, but in the shape they're in, they don't look like they'll last too long.
 
At the opposite end of this brace, about 60 yards away, I used a massive hackberry tree for a corner post. I used 2 by 4 pieces on all the contact points so that the tree does not eat the wire. Not sure how that will work in the long run, but it works for now.


 
pricefarm":1ii07sp5 said:
Anyone use used rail road ties for fence post ? How long would they last ?
Click to expand...

Got a bunch on my place the old man put in. He worked for the railroad and they weren't new when he got em. He didn't live long enough to answer your question and I'm not sure I will.
 
callmefence":251anr4a said:
pricefarm":251anr4a said:
Anyone use used rail road ties for fence post ? How long would they last ?
Click to expand...

Got a bunch on my place the old man put in. He worked for the railroad and they weren't new when he got em. He didn't live long enough to answer your question and I'm not sure I will.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Good wood post are hard to get around here. I have some treated post I put in 16 years ago that are almost rotted out.
 
pricefarm":1fc5inb9 said:
Anyone use used rail road ties for fence post ? How long would they last ?
Click to expand...

They don't last for chit around here. I think the moisture with all the freeze/thaw cycles we get is the culprit. They don't rot off at the ground, but bust apart from the top down. Brand new, or lightly used ties might be a diffrent story. Where there isn't much freezing, it'd be better for sure.
 
They last about 30 years here..some more than others, maybe 35 years. Not as long lasting as the old creosoted utility line poles sawed into fence posts but the ties do pretty good........some of it depends how long they were on the track.
 
i just tore down a building made of creosote telephone pulls. I cut them all in 3 for posts.. I got a pretty good amount of posts from them.

They were in a horse barn FILLED with manure 6' up. For atleast 40 years those poles were in wet manure... They still looked BRAND NEW w/o even a bit of rot. amazing. I've already pounded in a dozen.
 
Farm Fence Solutions":3iwogi7k said:
pricefarm":3iwogi7k said:
Anyone use used rail road ties for fence post ? How long would they last ?
Click to expand...

They don't last for chit around here. I think the moisture with all the freeze/thaw cycles we get is the culprit. They don't rot off at the ground, but bust apart from the top down. Brand new, or lightly used ties might be a diffrent story. Where there isn't much freezing, it'd be better for sure.
Click to expand...

What kind of wood posts can you get in Indiana?
 
fence_it":3a0bm5oc said:
Farm Fence Solutions":3a0bm5oc said:
pricefarm":3a0bm5oc said:
Anyone use used rail road ties for fence post ? How long would they last ?
Click to expand...

They don't last for chit around here. I think the moisture with all the freeze/thaw cycles we get is the culprit. They don't rot off at the ground, but bust apart from the top down. Brand new, or lightly used ties might be a diffrent story. Where there isn't much freezing, it'd be better for sure.
Click to expand...

What kind of wood posts can you get in Indiana?
Click to expand...

We are right between Red Pine and Southern Yellow Pine. CCA, ACQ, and Creosote are all available. There is another treatment that I am not familiar with that comes from a plant in IL.
Red Pine has concentric knots, so is prone to snapping in a driver. Southern Yellow Pine from the actual south make good posts when treated properly, but the northern SYP is not so great.
Hedge and Locust grow here, so they are used when possible. Plenty of sassafras line posts around, too.
And don't forget Ironwood that's treated with Class III galvanize and a clearcoat. :nod:
 
'northern southern yellow pine'

never heard that one before. Usually called white pine. it sucks.

a white pine vs. SYP will be about 1/2 the weight.
 

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